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July 2014

02 July 2014

Leaving Wentworth we were on our way again with the intention of going to Broken Hill in NSW and then on to Peterborough in SA, but a surprise find put a stop to that. We had decided to finish off our financial year tracking and budget and it was during this process that we noticed we had not paid our registration renewal! Hurried calls to the relevant authority in WA revealed that we really had only two choices, return to WA or re-register elsewhere. So after all that and with some wonderful help from the local Policeman and the staff at the motor registry, we ended up re-registering.

With all loose ends tied up Joanne checked wikicamps and found a nice little camp at Lyrup not far from Berri, complete with power for free. The campsite has 4 power outlets and looks through the trees to the Murray River. What a great little find.

03 July 2014

Our great little camp was another good one and we awoke with the two other campers (one of which came in around 9.30pm) to a sunny day. We thought of staying for another day just because we could but with the trees blocking the sun the only way to keep warm would have been to run a heater - all day!

We were the first to move this morning and it was not long before we were at the shops to get the some food shopping done and then the as we left the grape vines and citrus orchards behind, the open road was once again out in front, spoilt only by the wind increasing.

A check on wikicamps showed that there was a nice camp right on the river at Cadell so we went to check it out, crossing the river on the ferry to get there. Climbing up from the ferry we found the turn off and started down a good dirt road, arriving at the boat ramp and a little further on a nice grassed area complete with picnic tables, BBQ's and toilet and two other campers set up and the last decent spot waiting for us to pull into.

Our campsite at Cadell complete with ready made fire pit.

04 July 2014

Last night was quiet and despite the floodlights in the park being on until around 9.30pm and the cool breeze blowing up the river there was the chance to get some more practice with the camera and to enjoy the shadows on the cliffs opposite. The young couple camped near us had their fire going and probably just as well because they were in a tent! "remember those days?" Joanne said to me with a smile on her face. "Yep, I remember, and in many ways miss them - but not tonight" was my reply.

We awoke to a coolish morning and after some more photography it was time for breakfast and to hit the road again. Crossing back over the river on the ferry we made our way towards Burra, where like the last time we were there, it was blowing a gale and raining. Burra is a beautiful town full of old world charm, stone buildings of yesteryear and old shops that front onto the town square. We stopped for a break opposite a long row of old stone cottages and then moved on.

Passing the old Burra Homestead once more we made our way to Terowie passing the green rolling hills of the area which were unfortunately covered in grey cloud and rain.

Arriving in Terowie we took a drive around town and viewed what can only be called a "historic" town, where most of the buildings look like they are still back in the 1940's and have not had much love and attention since, and in fact they could use the place as a movie set because the front facades are still in place. Picking a spot near the old railway station in this old historic town we set up camp and did some exploring.

Terowie was the meeting of the gauges in SA where the broad gauge rail from Adelaide met the narrow gauge rail that went to Broken Hill, Oodnadatta and the Northern Territory, narrow because of economic restraint. Back in its day it was quite an important place but now there is just an old double platform, some rusty railway tracks of both sizes, some old buildings and some signs to tell what was where and when.

Terowie was also the place where on 20 March 1942 after fleeing the Philippines and in his first press release US General Douglas MacCarthur uttered the words "I have come from Bataan and I shall return". A stone cairn with a plaque now stands at that spot.

05 July 2014

Two other campers came in last night and like us they huddled inside out of the wind and rain that came and settled in. We awoke to a slightly better day though the wind was still blowing quite well.

Turning off the highway we were headed towards Peterborough, the road being quieter was nicer to drive and being quite scenic as it wound its way through the open grassland hills we were able to slow down and actually enjoy it, including the remains of an old stone cottage that we took some time to photograph while rugged up from the lazy wind.

Stone cottage.

Arriving in Peterborough a walk down the street, dump point use and water top up were the order of the day. Being a Saturday afternoon there was not much open so we pressed on, taking a detour to Black Rock to see what was there, the answer being very, very little.

Passing through Orroroo we made our way through more open grasslands with the sun coming out more and more and arrived in the little town of Carieton. Stopping for lunch in the small town we enjoyed the mural made up of a tonne of clay and fashioned into individual tiles that were 3D.

Lunch over we decided not to take up the pay for 2 and get 2 free nights despite the advertised price of $13.50 per night and pressed on, enjoying the scenery despite going over our self set daily kilometre allowance.

We spent some time taking photo's of this one as well.

Arriving into Craddock, we checked out the free camp next to the Craddock Hotel but decided to move on, enjoying more and more open grasslands as we drew closer to the ranges we could see in the distance near Hawker.

Just South of Hawker the view just got better and better.

Arriving in the town of Hawker the first thing we noticed were the signs informing everyone that camping is only allowed in designated places so as we had been there before and had no need of a caravan park we just drove straight through, arriving at the Nooltana Creek Rest Area on the top of a hill just 13 km's out of town. With the road below us and wonderful views of the surrounding ranges and the Western end of Wilpena Pound to enjoy we just selected the best spot and that was the end of the days travel, but not the photography.

Our little spot of dirt for the night.

The view out of our window.

06 July 2014

One other camper came in late last night and a cattle truck stopped on the side of the road for a bit, the cattle being pretty quiet until around dawn when they bellowed a bit to let the driver it was time to move on.

Clouds sat atop the hills opposite and over at Wilpena making for an interesting sunrise which we viewed from our bedroom. We broke camp and headed off North towards Parachilna, enjoying the views of the escarpment as it ran along to our right with the wispy cloud obscuring the top.

Turning off at the sign for the Marlana Scenic Drive. A dirt road of some 28 km's we let some air out of the tyres and headed off down the track as it wound its way though some beautiful scenery and numerous dry creek crossings where giant gum trees stood both on the banks and in the creek beds themselves. These trees are large not just in height but also in girth and make for a great sight. Elsewhere there are very few gum trees with some sort of native pine taking over and making the place look more like North America.

Some of the scenery along the drive.

Before long we arrived back at the road to Wilpena and stopped at the Elder Range Rest Area and lookout to put some air back in the tyres ready for bitumen driving. A handful of kilometres later we passed the turnoff to Rawnsley Station and then took the 2 kilometre dirt road into Arkaroo Rock Lookout and walk to some Rock Art. Arriving in the carpark we noticed the remains of small campfires and a distinct lack of No Camping signs. A quick check of wikicamps indicated that others had camped here with no problems so we found a nice spot where the sun would be with us until the huge rock cliff faces towering over us nearby blocked it and set up camp.

A 1 hr walk up the hill to the Rock Art and some catching up on the web page were the order of the day as others came and went and then later in the afternoon, campers began to come in and set up. No phone signal here and TV only via the satellite.

07 July 2014

A very quiet night last night and it wasn't as cold this morning as it has been. We were up reasonably early and after catching some sun over breakfast we moved on, passing the turn off into the Wilpena Pound Resort before leaving the National Park and climbing up to Hucks Lookout where the wind was strong enough to blow the dog off the chain. It would have made for a wonderful campsite except for the wind.

The view back to Wilpena Pound from Hucks Lookout.

After the lookout we began driving through some more very scenic countryside, the gum trees, green grass and hills making for a very pleasant ride, much better than any commute to work.

Taking a dirt road we made our way up the narrow track to the view point for The Great Wall of China, which was square rocks all along the top of the ridge making it look like a wall along the top. Nice but not impressive enough to take any photos.

More excruciatingly nice countryside and we arrived at the small town of Blinman, made just for the Copper that was mined here many years ago, but one that exists mostly on tourism these days. You can take a tour of an underground mine, take part in tag-along tours, stay in rustic old cottages of the late 1880's or begin or finish your cycle trip from Adelaide along the Mawson Trail. The main street is about 250m long with the main attractions being the General Store, Pub and very neat Town Hall.

Leaving Blinman with a Quandong Pie for tonight's desert we began our trip down the road to Parachilna with the specific target of camping tonight at the roadside camp area in the Parachilna Gorge. The rough dirt road meant a slow 20km/h trip to protect the suspension and tyres, but it had the added benefit of allowing us plenty of time to take in the view.

The road made its way through numerous dry rocky creek crossings where very large trees lined along the bank and in the creek itself to take advantage of the water when it does flow. High rocky cliffs in some parts redirecting the creek and making for wonderful views. We stopped at one spot for a look at the area and to decide if it would make a good campsite, but figured we would lose the sun early courtesy of the close hills and rock face.

This would have been our campsite view if we had stayed.

We arrived at the camp area which doubles as the start of the Heysen Trail, similar to the Mawson cycling trail but this time one for foot traffic. On arrival we found a small area near the start of the trail, water tank, tent platforms and a large carpark. We selected a level spot and one that would provide sun as late as possible before it disappears behind the hills and set up camp. The only others here are a couple in a car and tent who with their backpacks may be going to walk the trail.

Our campsite at Parachilna Gorge.

Both of us took different paths to explore the place, Joanne going down the trail a bit and then up and down the dry creek, and of course I went up the rocks to enjoy some commanding views of the area and to get some photography done.

The rock face directing the creek and the road running alongside looking back towards Blinman.

Talking a little later on with the other couple we find out they are going to drive back to Hawker and then walk the 100km of the trail back here to Parachilna before they hitch a bus ride back to pick up their car.

08 July 2014

A peaceful night well underway until around 2.30am when for some reason it was time to get up and take photos of the sky. A quick check of the stars showed the moon was a bit bright but not too bright for some photography.

The milky way above our camp.

Breakfast etc over it was time to take the last 10km or so down the dirt road towards the highway. The road followed the dry creek bed and along the way we found where the traffic was going yesterday. Plenty of 4x4 vehicles with their various camper trailers and roof top tents had taken up spots in and on the side of the creek bed, mostly in the shade and by the stance of the people - cold.

Arriving back at the highway we decided to go back to Hawker and to replace the front tyre that had a small creeping crack in the side wall. We noticed it a few days ago and after marking the ends decided to watch to see if it got worse, which it had.

On the way back we passed some more ruins and of course more of the Heysen Range as it runs down to Wilpena Pound, making for more photograph stops.

Heysen Range as it heads South towards Wilpena.

 

Ruins where old wooden railway sleepers were almost gone from existence.

The wind had got up as well by now and thankfully it was a tailwind.

Arriving back in Hawker we obtained a new tyre, filled up fuel and settled in the town carpark for lunch to catch up on photos and because we had been out of range for a while, emails and family on Instagram.

Later on we enjoyed a nice shower before we topping up our tanks with rainwater before heading out to a campsite near some more ruins at Hookina Creek and where we set up with our tail to the ever increasing wind and settled in for the night.

09 July 2014

The wind was still blowing this morning when we woke and so we headed North with the aid of a port quarter wind. The skies were grey and it was not looking too flash, though the low cloud on the range made for a nice sight. Before long we pulled into Parachilna, a small railway town of one pub, a school that looks like it closed only a few weeks ago and half a dozen houses. It here that you can get a bush tucker meal on your plate according to the sign as you approach, and the beer is free while the train goes through town - whenever that is.

Taking a whole 10 minutes to view the place and not stopping for an early lunch we moved on passing the road where we had come out from Parachilna Gorge yesterday. The further North we went the lower the range and the hills became and before long we had arrived at the coal mining town of Leigh Creek, complete with modern houses and shopping centre. The old town having been moved to allow the ground underneath it to be dug up for the coal. We took a short drive around town, topped up our fuel ($1.83 p/l), made a call to the Oodnadatta Roadhouse to enquire about the track conditions etc and then we were back out into the wind as light showers began to fall.

A quick drive around the nearby town of Copely which is just a tad bigger than Parachilna and we were again heading North, passing the overburden from the coal mine as the landscape began to flatten out more and more. Lyndhurst was our lunch stop and it is where the Strezlecki Track ends. Lyndhurst is another small town made up of a couple of houses, two "discount" service stations and a community hall.

Lunch in the carpark over we headed North again towards Marree, the bitumen road turning into a hard packed dirt road some 5 kilometres later, and some 25 km's later we came to the ghost town of Farina (www.farinastation.com.au) where there is an effort to rebuild and preserve the buildings that are left, and where there is an underground bakery (c 1880) that still functions. Plenty of 4x4's and campers were coming in for a look at the ruins and to get some food from the marquee tent next to the bakery. After buying a pasty big enough to fee the two of us we decided to camp in the campground (%5 per person per night) and took a walk back to view the ruins. Lots of other campers have come in since we arrived and the campground is getting full.

Hotel Ruins.

With our walk around town over we headed back home and settled in for the afternoon/evening and as the wind continued to blow more and more camper trailers and caravans came in and spent some time setting up their various rigs. Some even circled the wagons just in case of attack. The shower block here is fed by a water donkey so first in gets the warm shower :)

10 July 2014

There were around 30 campers in last night but despite the numbers, including kids, there was very little noise. We were up early and on the road, enjoying the 10 km of bitumen that starts around the Farina Ruins. Stopping at the start of the dirt to let the tyres down we then continued on to Marree. The road was generally very good with the occasional rough patch that meant slowing from 60 or 70km/h down to 30km/h to get through. The terrain very flat and windswept.

Passing a monument to John McDouall Stuart and those who followed to erect the telegraph and eventually the Ghan Rail line we came to a road sign we had not encountered before - Bitumen Road in 5 Kilometres. We laughed at how it normally says Gravel Road but were grateful for the smooth ride when we met it.

Just before Marree we came to the Southern end of the Birdsville Track which having taken the Northern Track to Birdsville meant we will have to come back this way in the future to complete it. Arriving in Marree we found a small community around what was the old railway station. Old rail tracks, some old Ghan locomotives, Tom Kruse's old Mail Truck, date palm trees, the pub and a number of houses and other buildings, including the LEYC, Lake Eyre Yacht Club, complete with boats and canoe hire (no guarantee of water though).

We pulled into the parking area opposite the pub and enquired if the campground was still free, which it was, so with only two other campers in we selected a spot and set up before taking a walk around town to see the sights. Unleaded fuel is $1.99 and Diesel $2.05 per litre.

One of the old Ghan Locomotives.

The old truck Tom Kruse used to carry the mail - if only it could talk.

So today is a short travel day and tomorrow, with a little trepidation we head off towards Oodnadatta some 400km's away.

11 July 2014

We spent yesterday afternoon looking around town, doing some washing and enjoying the $2 showers at the hotel. Then in the evening we decided to have chicken schnitzel and a drink in the pub, which was okay but they sure breed them chickens pretty tough out here.

It was a cool 4 degrees this morning when we awoke and that was a good excuse to get going early. Leaving the bitumen around town we were again back out onto the gravel of the Oodnadatta Track. Thankfully the wind has dropped but it is overcast as the clouds cover the sky.

The road was in good condition and it was fairly easy driving at 60-70 km/h, slowing every now and then for the rough rocky bits, corrugations and dry creek crossings, but would it last? The countryside where the road was was fairly flat with dry grass and rocks, and out on the horizon there were large flat top hills.

We came to an old square stream train water tank as it sat high upon its legs in the middle of nowhere and not far on from there we came to the Wangianna Fettlers Cottages, or what's left of them. The walls and roof are still there, fireplaces used recently by campers and the verandah definitely in need of repair. The rail track is gone but you can see the embankment it sat on, and the rails at 90 degrees where the Fettlers wagons would have rested.

The Wangianna Fettlers Cottages have seen better days.

More driving through the same conditions and countryside and we came to part of the dog fence that runs through here to separate the sheep (to the South) and cattle (to the North) country, keeping the dingoes away from the sheep. The fence is still in good condition as it came to the railway and there was one of the many large bridges that are rusting away as it crosses the creek with very rocky terrain all around us.

The Dog fence and the old railway under grey skies.

More easy driving and we came to Plane Henge at Alberrie Creek, where someone has made a heap of sculptures out of anything they could get their hands on, including two aircraft. We also noticed that the weather is improving and the cloud beginning to clear.

Plane Henge.

We took a short drive around the works and continued on until we arrived at Screeching Owl Creek where there was another old rail bridge. The area was so nice and the quiet so deafening we almost camped there, but as it was only lunchtime we decided to drive on some more.

Screeching Owl Creek Railway Bridge, complete with screeching owls.

The mud map from the Oodnadatta Roadhouse said it was there and as we came around a bend in the road we spotted the Southern end of Lake Eyre. The vast white salt lake stretching out as far as the eye could see about a kilometre from the road with just a couple of blips on the horizon denoting the existence of islands. We stopped for some photo's before continuing on and arriving at the one and only official lookout. The sign says no camping which is a pity because it would be a great spot to camp and to get some night photo's done just like we did at Lake Ballard. Stopping long enough to take in the view and for the flies to realise we were there we continued on.

The South end of Lake Eyre (well part of it).

Another 30 km's on and we came to Curdimurka Railway Siding, or what's left of it. The Ghan preservation society has done a lot of work to try and look after the place and it is reputed to be the best set of ruins on the track. There are the Fettlers cottages, an old hulk of a water desalination plant, some rails and remains of some really old cars way out the back.

The Fettlers Cottages at Curdimurka Siding.

We inspected the cottages which are in pretty good nick and complete with doors and glass in the windows, took a walk down the track to see the desalination tower and out the back to the old cars and then set up camp. Joanne went for another walk and then came back to tell me we needed to move, or at least go for a look at the railway bridge across the creek just half a kilometre down the track, so we did and it was there we remained.

The Stuart Creek Railway Bridge.

The water doesn't go too far and we are camped at the top of the cliffs and level with the top of the bridge.

12 July 2014

Other campers came in after us yesterday and as we were the first to move this morning we counted seven other vehicles parked around the ruins. The road started off okay but then gradually as the kilometres increased it got worse, and was at its absolute worst from the Mound Springs Conservation Park through to William Creek and we were at 20 to 40 km/h dodging the corrugations and large rocks for lots of it.

Our first stop was in fact at the Mound Springs Conservation Park where after a 4 km corrugated dirt road and a wet creek crossing we came to some large mounds in the middle of a salt lake. We were both hoping the end result was going to be worth the road in and out again and it was. We climbed up the boardwalk to the top of "The Bubbler" and found a small artesian fed pond, about 5m across, the muddy bottom visible as we watched small plumes of mud rise under the surface causing bubbles to escape and form ripples on the surface. We watched this for a bit while chatting with a couple towing a caravan before heading onto "Blanche Cup" which was another similar feature, but this time not so much bubble action going on. See www.friendsofmoundsprings.org.au for more information.

The Bubbler.

Back at the Oodnadatta Track we continued on our slow drive, thankful for the lower tyre pressures taking some of the shock and watching the 4x4 drivers going the other way seemingly hell bent on bending their suspension just because they had a 4x4. Before long we arrived at the ruins of the Beresford Fettlers camp as it sits on Anna Creek Station. Anna Creek Station was taken up in 1883 and has been part of the Sidney Kidman Cattle empire since 1934, covering some 24,000 square kilometres, "bigger than Belgium and half the size of the UK" the sign proclaimed.

Beresford Ruins.

We stopped for a look and were immediately welcomed by the flies. Enough fly swatting and a cup of coffee over we were again back on the track to Oodna and making our slow way to the Strangeways Springs Walks which the information told us was a the ruins of a complete village high on a hill with mound springs.

With just a dirt road heading off up a hill, the sight of some buildings on the hill and one of the Pink Roadhouse signs as our guide we had arrived. We took the track about a kilometre up the hill and parked up to go an inspect the village. The minute we were out of the motorhome the flies came to welcome us and we climbed the hill to the ruins swatting the little buggers out of our eyes. With three walks to choose from we took the shortest which took us to the village itself. On arrival we could see one good building in amongst many others in various stages of decay including the Men's Quarters, Kitchen and Living Quarters, Police Station, Smithy's workshop and Stock yards, that made up the village.

The Buttressed 10,000 gallon Water tank.

The view out across the Gibber Plain from what's left of the Station Managers Residence (c 1860-1872). The building later became the Overland Telegraph Office (c1872-1896) and is to the right of the Buttressed Water tank and behind what is left of the kitchen.

Moving on we began looking for a campsite with the intention of finishing early but after an inspection of a spot on the other side of the track from the ruins track we decided to press on, and we should have known better because we found nothing we liked at all. We did find another rail bridge similar to last night but eventually decided to continue on because the area was soft dusty dirt and every footstep meant a cloud of dust, then we hoped for a camp near the large sand dunes that run through the area but there was nothing we could drive on without getting stuck so we moved on again.

One of the local Sand Dunes.

Before we knew it we were at William Creek, a small outpost on the track that consists of a pub, restaurant, campground and joy flights over Lake Eyre or the Painted Desert Hills. We stopped for a break and then headed off down the track some more, passing the William Creek turnoff to Coober Pedy but now we were flying along at 80km/h on a freshly graded and hard packed dirt road with barely a ripple in it for over 35 km's. But then as the good stuff ran out and we were down to 30km/h we found a cleared area near a roadwork's pump area and borrow pit with the gibber plain stretching out before us on all sides.

The moon rises over our own moonscape (Gibber plain).

13 July 2014

Last night was quite warm and by far the mildest we have experienced in a while, and this morning was the same courtesy of the cloud cover that had come in overnight. We set off before breakfast deciding to eat at Duff Creek. The road was fairly ordinary and by the time we arrived at our breakfast spot the wind was also up. Pulling in we spotted the 4x4 truck that had passed us yesterday and there was a large amount of dust coming up from behind it. Turns out that they were bogged!

Joanne got breakfast going and I went to see if they needed help. Their camp had been a good one overnight but when they tried to change places this morning to get Macca on the radio the soft stuff got them. The driver gave it a good boot full and was making progress for a bit digging himself a trench towards the hard rocky ground but then the trench got too deep and the front and rear diff's were touching sand. He dug out the front of the wheels out then dropped some recovery boards down and gave it another boot full, the wheels getting a grip on those boards and all of a sudden the 7 tonne vehicle was shooting out of the sand like a bullet out of a gun. We had a bit more of a chat while he packed up his gear and then as he went out to the road we tucked into eggs, bacon, baked beans, toast with ginger jam and a nice hot coffee.

Breakfast over we were fighting the corrugated road for many more kilometres as we passed through the bare moonlike Anna and Nilpinna Station land. We passed Duff Creek Siding ruins and more at Edwards Creek and had the Denison Davenport Range running along on our right and of course the ever present remains of the Ghan Railway with the embankment and old sleepers, some of which had been made into peoples names as they leant against the embankment. We met a cyclist and had a bit of a chat before continuing on to the Algebuckina Railway Bridge where we inspected the bridge before setting up camp.

The view across the Algebuckina Railway Bridge.

The cyclist we met came in not long after we had set up camp and we had another chat before he headed off to find a spot out of the wind, coming back at our invite for a hot cup of coffee and more talks about our respective trips. Paul is from Tasmania and is heading for Broome on what is his 5th trip through here. From Oodnadatta he follows more outback roads via Mt Dare and Finke then across to Alice Springs, then up the Tanami Desert Road to Halls Creek and onto Broome, staying off the highway as much as possible.

Not much sun today and with a cold wind blowing we put the portable solar panels out and despite the apparent lack of sunshine our 380 watts worth of panels managed to keep the batteries full.

14 July 2014

Pitter patter, pitter patter on the roof overnight caused a few thoughts to be cast towards what the road would be like when wet. We were parked on gravel so there was no problems there but the road could be a different matter. Thankfully the rain had hardly even settled the dust and we headed off to cover the remaining 50 km's to Oodnadatta.

Up and down dale through more gibber plain and country and a stop at the Mt Dutton Fettler cottage ruins complete with one lonely grave were the order of the day. There was not much else to see other than the road and the railway as it crossed our path a few times, and of course there was light rain falling which was enough to make the windscreen wipers operate and us to be thankful that the road here was a rocky one.

The road through the Gibber Plain.

Arriving at a T intersection we turned right and into town. As we approached we saw the Pink Roadhouse on the left and new, neat corrugated housing behind the fence opposite. We, along with heaps of 4x4's pulled into the roadhouse for a look and to see what all the fuss was about. The roadhouse serves as the Post Office, come grocery store come take away come weather and road reports and anything else you could think of. Fuel today was $2.20p/l for unleaded and $2.25p/l for Diesel and thankfully we had enough onboard both in our tank and jerry cans.

The Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta.

A drive around town proved to be a short affair with only a couple of streets, the free camp on the town common, the museum in the old railway station, a pub, Police station, medical centre, school and a general store that looked like it was closed. We inspected the museum and before heading out of town went back to the roadhouse to enquire about the road through to the Painted Desert. On arrival we met up with Paul the cyclist again and ended up sitting and chatting inside over a coffee and a huge bowl of chips while the rain that had been falling left and the skies began to clear up.

Oodnadatta Railway Station, now a museum.

Leaving town we stopped for a look at Hookeys Lagoon where you can camp, and what a nice place that would be on a hot day. The road towards Coober Pedy is the main road to town for Oodna residents and it is 1,000% better than the Oodnadatta Track. Being fairly flat there was little in the way of creek crossings and the inevitable corrugations and so it was fairly easy to be sitting on 80km/h without a care in the world. And then...

And then we turned off onto the Painted Desert Road, or should we say goat track. Back to 20km/h or slower as we wound our way for 45 km's through the property that is the Arckaringa Station, home of hills of the same name or Painted Desert and corrugations big enough to get lost in. A few creek crossings and even one that we were driving up (or down) the actual creek bed and we came to some beautiful looking hills which are all sorts of browns, yellows, oranges and anything else you can think of.

Our first view of the Painted Desert.

a little closer.

More of the Painted Desert and despite the grey sky it still looked good.

We stopped a number of times for photographs and with no camping allowed anywhere it was onto the station homestead itself for somewhere to camp. "We're in town for the day but leave your money in the tin and find a spot to set up" was the note to campers, and so we and then three other campers did exactly that. Rustic toilets and showers sit next to a few rooms in dongas', a basic camp kitchen, bore water taps, some fire pits and not much else make up the camp with the cost of $20 per vehicle.

15 July 2014

Three other campers in last night and after a chat with some and a nice long hot shower it was a very quiet night. We awoke this morning to the pitter patter of rain on the roof again and the thought of a wet goat track was not one we wanted to entertain, but after breakfast the rain had cleared and were on our way. The 45 km road out from the homestead was certainly better than the road in and after passing through the Mt Barry Station we were back on the road to Coober Pedy and enjoying a good speed of 70-80 km/h.

The terrain around these parts is very flat with hills visible on the horizon and there is not much growing because of the open terrain and the ability of the wind to keep it windswept. We did however find this nice looking area near a creek and windmill.

Further on there was a moonscape with nothing but rocks as far as the eye can see. The map said this was about 16 km from town but we were 30km's out.

Moonscape that goes for as far as the eye can see.

Before long we could see the hills and buildings that make up Coober Pedy with many of the hills having verandah's on one side and little poles sticking up out of what is the roof making for an interesting outlook. Pulling into town we drove up the main street where every second building seemed to be an Opal experience or place to buy some. A quick visit to the information centre revealed not much at all. Nearby there was the water filling station where you buy and pump water like you do fuel. Wikicamps showed a cheaper alternative to the expensive caravan parks in town so we went to the Op-Shop camp just on the edge of town to check it out.

The camp is a just what we were after and consists of a block of dirt next to the Op-Shop (hence the name) and which has a dump point, toilet, power and water for $15 per night and can take about 10 rigs if everyone does the right thing. Garry the host met us at the gate and welcomed us. He gave us some information on the best places to go in town, the places to shop, how to get good Opal, what to look for as you go around town (everyone walks around looking down around here), before giving us a small bag of Opal chips so we knew what to look for, a DVD to watch on Opal and the town itself, and said to leave the rent in the box inside the bus door when we decide to leave. Other than that...enjoy yourself.

16 July 2014

A peaceful night and chores over we went off for a walk around town to see the sights. The main street is a kilometre away from where we are staying and so it was an easy walk. Walking up one side and down the other with a few cross over's we visited an underground Church before checking out the Opals and the prices in one of the many Opal sellers and viewing the old movie prop spaceship before it was time for a coffee and donut and then some more walking as we went to see an underground house.

Old movie prop from the movie Pitch Black, one of the many movies made around Coober Pedy.

Faye's underground house is one of the homes that you can inspect for a small fee ($5 per person) and although Faye no longer lives there the new owners Colin and June welcomed us into their home with Colin giving us the history of the place and a tour before leaving us to explore the house some more and to get photos of anything we wanted to. The house is spread over three levels and had none of the musty smell that the other underground buildings we had been in had.

Underground Lounge room.

Leading up to the Dining room from the bar and lounge.

The kitchen is the first room you come to when you come inside.

Two of the bedrooms. Note the carved out all to accommodate the dressing table mirror and the shelf carved into the wall as you head down to the other bedroom.

Each of the rooms has an air vent that goes up through the roof. The roof is left un-sealed to let the rock breathe and to save on having to lacquer it all the time and they put matches in the cracks to act as a warning in case the earth moves. A match on the floor means look at the ceiling above just in case. Temperature inside remains between 23 and 25 degrees C all year round even when it is 45 degrees outside.

Leaving Faye's house we took a stroll through the public noodling area and had a bit of a poke around to see if lady luck was with us today, but she must have been resting because although we did find some Opal it was nothing of great value. Of course that just means that we have to go back tomorrow for a better scratch around.

Arriving back at our camp we found that despite there being only one other there when we left there were now another three additions. Its a little cheek by jowl but people are quite aware of that and pretty good - so far.

17 July 2014

We decided overnight that today was going to be noodling day and so after breakfast we took the 1.5 kilometre walk to the public noodling area previously known as the Jewellery Store because of the small gems that it produced near the surface. The area was mined many years ago with bulldozers and is now a moonscape with large mounds of dirt where the dozers pushed it around. The locals all want to mine the place properly to get the gems left behind from the slash and burn type that happened with the bulldozers but the Council has said no because mining is not allowed in town and so they have left it for tourists and anybody who is willing to scratch around without any mining equipment.

We spent about four hours there looking around, scratching in the hills and gullies and only found a small stone about the size of your thumbnail with some colour in it, hardly worth it except for the fun of it.

Not a very good picture of it but...

On the walk back we passed one of the underground Motel's high up on the top of a hill. The forecourt has parking and what looks like a carport over the entry and the rest is stuck in the side of the hill.

Air vents and Satellite TV dish on the roof of the Motel.

18 July 2014

After filling up with fuel, including two jerry cans, and getting some shopping and the washing done we hit the highway again heading North along the Stuart Highway passing the overburden heaps from the Opal mines which went of for over 20 kilometres up the highway.

Little mounds of waste from the diggings scatter the landscape.

Eventually leaving the tell tale signs of Opal mining we were again into the open scrubby landscape of the outback and after 117 kilometres decided to camp at the Matheson Bore Rest Area.

19 July 2014

Seven other campers in for a peaceful night and this morning we awoke to grey skies and a stiffening breeze. Not very much to see today except terrain that with the red dirt, low to non existent scrub looked more like the Pilbarra in WA but without the hills.

We arrived at the town of Marla where it sits at the Northern end of the Oodnadatta Track. A look around town showed that there was very little the the place and the caravan park, motel, shops and fuel stop were all linked and definitely the hub of the town. We stopped long enough to top up with fuel ($1.91 p/l), to use the phone signal for Internet and the like and to grab a bite to eat. Camper trailers, caravans, motorhome's and all sorts were coming and going in for fuel, to let their tyres down to head off down the Oodnadatta Track or pumping them up after coming up.

Heading back out onto the highway the low scrub remained but hills and small ranges came into view on the left and the right and the small flat topped hills off in the distance made for interesting viewing. Road traffic was fairly busy and the triple trailer road trains with freight or cattle were out and about heading in both directions.

We pulled into the Agnes Creek Rest Area after 213 km's (a big day) and found ourselves a nice spot on some blue metal up at one end, angling ourselves away from the wind and settling in as the grey skies that had been with us all day lifted and the blue came in.

20 July 2014

Sunday is meant to be a rest day and that is exactly what we did today. As the other campers packed up and left we set up the portable solar panels and then the wok for Macca on the radio and TV for the rest of the day, especially our favourite show Landline.

All days triple trailer road trains went up and down the highway with their freight, cattle, concrete, boats, vehicles and anything else you can think of, and caravans, camper trailers, motorhome's and cars did the same, and we sat in the sun and enjoyed the blue sky, TV and a day off.

21 July 2014

Last night being so clear was a good opportunity to capture some stars with the camera and so...

The Heavens over the motorhome.

Woke to a coolish morning and after the usual's we hit the road with blue skies and plenty of traffic heading South. We checked a couple of rest areas out as we went and were certain that our choice for the past two nights was the best of the three.

Crossing over the border 50km's later we were out of South Australia and into the Northern Territory. Almost as if on cue the terrain changed from just low lying scrub to ranges on the horizon and large red boulders and rocks all over the place and making for pleasant scenery as we drove. The small town of Kulgera appeared and looking not much more than the pub, roadhouse, caravan park and a couple of houses we decided not to stop.

Ding, ding, the phones went off with text messages coming in and that told us we were near Erldunda and the turn off the Ayers Rock/Uluru We stopped into the roadhouse to get fuel, use our phones for Internet and time for a coffee, and so did 5,000 others. Talk about a popular spot! It's location of 200km South of Alice Springs and and 250km East of Ayers Rock/Uluru and on the main highway it is the perfect spot to print money. Diesel $2.10, Unleaded $2.05 per litre and with reports of $2.33 a litre at the rock we topped the tank up so that we left with a full tank and two jerry cans, enough we hope to get us there, around and back.

7km down the road we came to a track into the bush where someone on wikicamps had indicated there was a nice bush camp, and so turning off the main road and down a dirt track for about 100m we eventually came to a nice secluded area out of sight from the road, and so after 179 km's, a quick weather check and blue skies overhead we turned the engine off until tomorrow, the only sound being the prolific birdlife (including the chiming wedgebill) and the occasional vehicle going down the road.

22 July 2014

Waking up to nothing but the sound of birds is a wonderful thing and it was very pleasant to stay in bed and and listen to them as the sun rose. Leaving our camp we headed off down the road, passing generally flat terrain with ranges on the horizon. Mt Ebenezer roadhouse was fairly busy as we passed through.

Having only covered 97 km's since we had fuelled up at Erldunda we came around a corner and "is that the rock?" and we thought it was until we looked at the map later on and discovered that it was in fact Mount Connor.

Around 127 kilometres after leaving our bird song camp we came to a large 24 hr campsite/rest area on the side of the highway with some interesting trees,a couple of water tanks, tables and shelters so that was it, we decided that it would be today's camp and so by lunchtime we had set up, had the awning out, the satellite tv set up and the washing done.

The view from our campsite today.

Lunch and a few things over with we took a short stroll up the sand dune that was nearby and got a good look at Mt Connor and the surrounding countryside before retreating to the fly-less zone inside the motorhome. The weather has been fantastic of late and its 27 deg C at 2pm so it is definitely shorts and t-shirt weather now.

Mount Connor from the top of the sand dune near our camp.

23 July 2014

Only one other camper in last night though quite a few came in for a look later in the afternoon but left again. The cloud cover built up as the day progressed and it rained during the night making us thankful we were parked on solid ground and not the beautiful rusty red soil around here.

Leaving our camp as the contractor emptied the bins and topped up the water tanks we were soon at the Mount Connor lookout and having already seen it almost drove past and making a late decision to stop was a good one. There is a shelter, table and water tank on the side of the road where everyone stops and opposite is a rusty red soil walkway up to the top of the sand dune so we took that, the only other living thing to have been up there recently was a dog, or probably a dingo.

Getting to the top we found a salt lake on the other side and a nice view of Mt Connor looking back, the deep dark red soil wet from last nights rain, the plants and the cloudy sky making for a great contrast.

The view of the salt lake from the Mt Connor lookout.

Mt Connor from the lookout and somewhat further away than from our last campsite.

Moving on we were about 30km's from Ayers Rock when there it was on the left and another 20km's on there was a gravel pit with a view of the rock. We stopped ready to set up camp for the day but decided to walk about half a kilometre through the spinifex and the desert oak trees that look a little like a bottle cleaning brush to a high point on a sand dune to see if it afforded a better view. Getting to the top there was not only a view of the rock, but of the Olga's as well.

The view of Ayers Rock from the sand dune near our camp, albeit the backside.

The view of the Olga's from the sand dune near our campsite.

We figured that we would go into the resort of Yulara for a look, to get some information on visiting the rock and Olga's tomorrow and to go to the supermarket before coming back the gravel pit for the night and to watch the rock change colour.

On arrival at the gravel pit we were the only ones there and figured we might have it all to ourselves, but later on as the sun set and our fellow tourists came back from the sunset viewing the place really started to fill up. Figuring the stars would be good across the top of the rock tonight I made my way up through the spinifex loaded up with my camera gear in my backpack, my tripod, a torch and two way radio to my vantage point about half a kilometre away while Joanne remained back at camp, meeting two German backpackers there on my arrival.

The German's left just as the sun dipped below the horizon after taking photos on their iPad and I remained to take a few test shots and wait for the diamonds in the sky to come out. Taking the shots was interesting enough but the rock was too far away to make the photo's memorable.

Not quite the shot I had envisaged, but it was fun trying.

Letting Joanne know I was on my way back I took a slow trip back through the spinifex towards the camp and the now "many" other campers, arriving to find fourteen other campers in with us, small fires glowing in the dark and the sounds of numerous foreign languages being spoken.

24 July 2014

A cold but peaceful night with the exception of a pack of dingo's howling at the lack of scraps left out for them in the camp last night and we awoke to look out of the window and see the rock, wondering how many at the resort would be able to just turn their head and see it.

Today was the day to visit the Olga's or Kata Tjuta or "many heads"as it is also known, a large formation of domes that rise up 2-300m and on closer inspection are made up of boulders the size of melons embedded in what we can only assume is molten rock, looking like someone's home made concrete with pebbles but on a very, very large scale.

The Olga's from the Sunrise Lookout.

Leaving the carpark we had figured that we would just walk to the first lookout and back but ended up continuing the walk because it was so nice. The track was very rocky which made for hard walking and the sun being out helped us raise a sweat, but the scenery sure made up for it.

Beautiful scenery everywhere around the domes of the Olga's once we had negotiated the first climb and descent.

The view from the lookout inside the Karingana Gorge looking back where we had climbed up.
For scale note the two people on the track in the bottom right of the shot.

The way out of the Gorge and down to flatter terrain.
Joanne is at the bottom left of the shot.

We were in the valley of the winds and the breeze blowing through was very welcome as it turned the sweat we had raised into a cold bath under our clothes.

Joanne snapped this shot of a small waterhole on our walk.

Heading back towards the carpark after almost 5 km's.

The path here was like walking up a creek bed, but the stunning scenery made it all worthwhile.

The Olga's from the Sunset Lookout.

We arrived back at the carpark after two and a half hours, legs and feet telling us they had been working harder than they have in a long time, but we were happy with our efforts and what we had seen and experienced. Truly magnificent and worth doing again sometime.

Arriving back at our camp there were two other campers were in already but we managed to get exactly the same spot as the night before and so after a meal and a cleanup it wa s time to rest two weary bodies.

25 July 2014

An early night last night after our big walk saw us awake early this morning, the camp was quiet despite the 18 other campers in overnight with the odd vehicle leaving early to get to the sunrise viewing at the rock some 20 km away. We decided to go in to see the rock over breakfast and arrived around 8am. Stopping at the sunrise viewing platform for pre breakfast photos as most people were leaving which meant we didn't have to fight the crowds for the best vantage point. Photo's taken we drove over to the bus and coach parking area to enjoy breakfast while viewing the rock.

The rock at 8am from the sunrise platform.

Initial photos and breakfast over we went off to explore the rock. With only two specific places on the map to see we thought our look at the rock would be relatively short but with walking to and from the sights and even taking a little of the track that goes around the rock we spent more time there than we thought we would, but it didn't matter because it was so nice and the cool of the shade under the trees as we walked to see the waterhole, caves and where the waterfalls were was very nice. Compared to the boulders in molten rock of the Olga's, Ayers Rock is smooth and seemingly more of a granite type of rock and the ribs on it seem to suggest it was formed in layers being punched together rather than melted.

Part of the 10km walk around the rock. We did contemplate doing it but decided not to.

This shot was taken from the sunset viewing platform some distance away and if you look real close you can see there are three groups of people on the rock.
It's a 3km return trip for those who take on the challenge.

The view from the sunset platform.

So being all rocked out we went back to Yulara to get fuel ($2.15 a litre) and some fresh bread before heading out to our campsite for a final night before we head off again. Both the Olga's and the Rock are very nice to see but unfortunately it is very touristy and seemingly very regulated but it's probably a good idea that it is because we can imagine how wrecked the place would be if it wasn't. We enjoyed our visit and are glad we saw it and can now tick it off the bucket list.

26 July 2014

Yesterday afternoon we returned to our campsite and for the third time the wheels stopped in exactly the same spot, and later on another twelve campers were in, some a little closer than we would have liked but they were all quiet (even the whiz-bangs) and we all slept under a very cool night. Leaving our camp we took one last look at the rock and hit the road, passing Curtain Springs and stopping in exactly the same spot at the Desert Oaks rest area to spend the rest of the day doing the washing, a couple of little jobs and then relaxing watching the TV for the afternoon.

27 July 2014

Leaving our Desert Oaks campsite we were on our way to the Salt Creek Rest Area about halfway to Kings Canyon. Just before we left a grader road train went past made up of a grader and two trailers behind and we passed it sometime later. The terrain flattened out as we stopped crossing the rusty red sand dunes before we turned North eventually finding our campsite complete with last nights campers about to leave.

We settled in for the day and just as Joanne came back from her exploratory walk the grader road train turned up. We spent about 30 minutes talking to Brian (and his 16 year old dog Toddy) who for the last 40 years has graded many of the outback roads including the Great Central Road, the road to Finke and others, working for six weeks and then heading home for two weeks off before coming back out again. As you would expect he has a million stories and plenty about the axles, springs and hitches he has repaired on numerous cars, caravans and trailers who travel too fast with tyres too highly inflated on these roads.

Brian's Grader road train consists of 7000l of water, compressor, generator, 12,000l of diesel, an office come sleeping quarters and usually has a 4x4 on the rear end to boot.
Click here for a short video (look for the tomato plant at the start of the office/living quarters under the air-conditioner).

28 July 2014

With some of the other campers up early this morning it was a good chance to get going ourselves, after all we had about 120 km's to cover to get to Kings Canyon, and the closer we got to our destination the more a range came into view on the right. Passing the Kings Canyon Station we entered the National Park and eventually came to a very full carpark for the walk around the rim.

Loaded up with food, water and camera's we took the walk up Kings Creek to the viewing platform first. It was a very pleasant temperature along the creek and the scenery just beautiful.

Kings Creek.

Kings Creek further upstream.

The map of Kings Canyon says that the start is the steepest part and it is not wrong. We're not sure how high the climb is but it takes some time to get up and when we got there we sure knew we had done some exercise - only 6km's to go!

Funny but it doesn't look that far up!

This stunning view begged for it's photo to be taken.

Not far from here we were sat over looking the canyon enjoying a short break when a ranger came along carrying what looked like cleaning gear. After joking with her about it being one hell of a cleaning job she told us she is there to pick up the litter, especially the toilet paper that the 1% leave behind. We couldn't imagine having to walk this more than once a day let alone walking it to pick up toilet paper!

The view back along the Canyon showing the North (R) and South (L) rims which are up to 270m above the canyon floor.

Walking along the North rim through beehive like rock structures (mini Bungle Bungles) was an interesting experience, each beehive made up of layers of rock that have taken their shape over the years as wind and rain have eroded them. The pathway took a route up and down over and around these structures and across some crevices of which one required a bridge.

The bridge over the crevice leads to more beehive clambering.

Beehives and layers of rock.

And then we came to a steep set of stairs so steep that we almost had to go down sideways to avoid falling over and being someone's entertainment. The stairs led down to a bridge across the creek before a short climb back up the rock and then another set of stairs going up to the rim again! A pathway at the bottom of these stairs led us along a beautiful creek lined by rock and filled with water, white gums and palms before arriving at a large waterhole known as the Garden of Eden.

The creek leading to the Garden of Eden.

The Garden of Eden Waterhole where we sat in the shade (with a few others) to cool down a bit and to take a rest.

The Garden of Eden from above.
Creek and walkway above, waterhole below and beehives on top.

Looking back to the head of the Canyon from the South Rim.

We were glad to see the sign that pointed out we were on the South Rim walk and that mean't we were halfway and heading back. The sun was beating down making us work hard for the views and after a short climb over some more beehives we descended over the next couple of kilometres to the carpark and a welcome cool off, cold drink and sit down. It's not an easy walk but it is an impressive one and well worth doing.

Leaving the canyon we had the choice of driving the 40 kilometres out of the National Park to find a bush camp, drive the 30 km's to the Kings Canyon Station and pay to stay there or drive 10 km's to the Kings Canyon Resort for the night. So with the Kathleen Springs walk to do tomorrow we decided on the resort where for the sum of $45 we pulled into a powered site ($38 unpowered), plugged in the water, power and grey water hose before thoroughly enjoying a nice long hot shower in the very clean amenities. Despite the high price the resort is quite nice and clean and comes with resort style motel rooms, swimming pool, tennis court, seven ablutions blocks/laundries, bar, sunset viewing platform, free live entertainment, dump point, service station (diesel $2.33 p/l) and dingo's after dark (apparently).

29 July 2014

For what is essentially a caravan park the Kings Canyon Resort was a quiet camp and when we hit the sack around 9.30pm there were not many others up and around last night. This morning was fairly peaceful with some campers leaving around 6-6.30am and making just enough noise to rouse us from our slumber. Making sure we had charged everything up, filled up with water and enjoyed another long hot shower we departed for Kathleen Springs, the last of our stops in the Watarraka National Park.

On arrival we found a small parking area and managed to squeeze in behind a caravan before heading off for the short 2km walk to the springs which sit at the end of another canyon. Before this was a National Park it was used to corral and water cattle and there are remains of those days with old fencing and the location of a water tank/trough and windmill.

Remains of the old cattle trapping yard.

The creek from Kathleen Springs looking towards the spring at the head of the canyon.

Kathleen Spring.

Like some of the shots at Kings Canyon, getting a good shot of the spring was a little hard with the sun in the wrong place and this one required getting down on one's side and shooting through the fence using the tall grass to block the sun.

So with all of the major sights in the Red Centre done we pointed our nose towards the Lassetter Highway and headed for our little bush camp just short of Erldunda where we will meet the Stuart Highway to head North once again. Both of us can say we enjoyed the Red Centre very much.

30 July 2014

The prolific birdlife was still at our little bush camp which made for pleasant listening, both as the sun set and then rose. A lazy morning this morning before we were back out onto the highway with the traffic, most of which seemed to be Victorian number plates and heading South. Flat open land through here with a couple of large dry rivers including the Finke before we arrived at the Cannonball Memorial for the drivers and officials killed during a Cannonball Run event back when there was an open speed limit in the NT.

With around 100km to Alice Springs we stopped at the Stuart's Well Roadhouse to put some insurance fuel in before climbing the range heading for the Mt Polhill Rest Area, but on arrival found it to be a very small one lane rest area with tables and a toilet and not somewhere we would want to camp. So, having spotted a gravel pit a few kilometres back at the turn off to Owen Springs we turned around and went back to find a large, open area well off the road with gravel to park on and the remains of old open fires and even some fire wood ready for use - perfect!

31 July 2014

Leaving another great gravel pit camp we were headed for The Alice as it is known, and it wasn't long before we had covered the 67 kilometres into town. Alice Springs sits next to the MacDonnell Range, the road and Ghan Railway coming through a gorge just before town and making for a great entrance to town. A quick run around town and we were into the long term caravan/motorhome parking next to the very dry, sandy Todd River. Mail collection, some shopping, some Internet catch up, fuel and a new gas bottle and we were out of there and headed for the MacDOnnell Ranges themselves.

We stopped at the grave of the Reverend John Flynn who founded the Royal Flying Doctor Service and noted that the original round stone on the plinth over his grave came from the Devils MArbles but was later replaced after the indigenous requested it back at what they consider a sacred place for women. The good news is that they recognised the importance of Flynn's work and offered another similar stone from another site.

Out of town the scenery just got better and better and better, the long ranges stretching off into the distance and the detail in the ranges making for very pleasant viewing. Taking the turn off to Simpson's Gap we took the short 8 km bitumen road to the gap for a look. The sign said it was an easy 20 minute walk to the gap itself, and sure enough it was.

Breathtaking is the only word to describe the sandy riverbed that between two large rock outcrops. We spent half an hour taking it all in and getting some photos as other people came and went, including one man who was going for a swim! Here's a taste of what we saw.

The start of the water as you get closer to the gap.

The water thins out a little before you reach the gap itself.

The Gap itself.

Such a beautiful spot, the shade between the rocks was a bonus on what was a fairly warm day. Unfortunately there is no camping here as it is in the National Park which closes at 5pm but it sure would be a great spot to get some star or milky way photos through the gap.

Leaving the beautiful Simpson's Gap we continued on with the magnificent views of the ranges on both sides, passing many driveways into what we initially thought might be aboriginal communities but a closer inspection revealed what we think are small farm holdings. Passing Standley Chasm and a few other places we decided that we will get to the end of the road and view more things on the way back towards Alice rather than as we go. Eventually we climbed a small hill and found a beautiful spot at Point Howard Lookout where the sign says 24 Hour Camping Allowed. The rest area, complete with shelter, table and water tank is large enough to get about 10 or so rigs in comfortably and with only one other camper in we took what we described at the best spot looking along the range and with a spine like rocky outcrop leading away from us towards the setting sun.

The view from just to the left of our campsite.

Directly behind us. What a great way to end the month.

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Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.

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